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This is a very simple mod to execute. All you need is a plastic bezel and a stock backing plate with all gauges removed. I used a 5-inch speedometer and tach, as well as three 2 5/8 ones. I chose water temp oil pressure and volts, figuring I can handle the gas thing using my trip odometer, your choice may vary so choose accordingly.

This mod all comes down to two  parts; one, using a dremel and carve up the parts of the bezel that are in the way and then do the same to the backing plate. And two,  mount the new gauges to the front bezel. This second part can be done in many ways, some no doubt better than others. This article is in no way proposed as the best way, I am merely sharing how I did it. All other disclaimers apply, YMMV.

A new Autometer (Ultra-Lite) voltmeter and the cutting tool I used to mutilate them with.

It was pretty scary to do the first time so I chose a cheap one. Just cut carefully through the aluminum without hitting the housing or the lens.

Once the aluminum bezel was cut off.

I had to Dremel out a bit of plastic to make the new gauge fit.

I also used this beater camera-case bezel to test with.

A shot of the "machine" work needed to fit the 5 inchers into there.

I drilled holes in the Autometer flanges to mate them into the gauge bezel. Be careful, the middle 2 5/8 gauge does NOT use the same pattern as the outer ones!

Closeup of the drilled holes.

For compaisons sake. When I do it for real I'll use the deluxe dash unit instead of the camera case version.

Use a sawsall/jigsaw/hacksaw/grinder to cut your back panel up to look like this. The pockets for the small guys should be fairly tight since the flanges they have for attaching are weaker.


An example of how tight.

A close-up of the weak flange screwed into the back of a repop bezel. Re-pop and original may differ slightly for concourse stuff but after what you just did to the backing plate you're not too worried about that stuff now.

A closeup of the 5-inch gauge which has stronger frames.

Once all the gauges are secure, you'll need to have the little cardboard tubes if you want to retain the original turn signals, brake failure light and high-beam indicator light.

Make sure the cardboard lines up well with the holes unless you are into the under dash glow effect.

Wiring for al lights are in.

Then the gauges are all wired into the harness for a conversion  to new wiring harness from Painless.

Without a flash the shutter was open so long it is a bit blurry, but here you can see how the wires were tie wrapped up for neatness.

With a flash the picture washed out a bit, but here's more detail.

The entire package, ready to be installe. Notice on the extreme right, I have four leads for the fuel gauge to the A-pillar.

Anyone know someone who wants an original in-dash tach in an original bezel? I have the full wiring and multiple clocks for it too.