67 GTA home
Well, I don't want to come off as a basher of Painless Performance, their engineering, their products, their support, or their quality (I still have a high opinion of all these things) but...these kits are NOT Painless!
Maybe it is just me, I am not electrically inclined. Add to that the fact that I've had a car burn to the ground from an electrical fire (20+ years ago but the memory is still fresh) and I am decidedly paranoid about this. First thing I learned is the true definition of "universal"; what that really means it that it "wont fit anything", if it fit a Mustang/Bronco/Jeep/Vette it would be called a "Mustang/Bronco/Jeep/Vette" kit :-) I know I have added many things to my car that are not standard but this has all added up to give me the hardest time and easily been my biggest hurdle yet to getting this project completed. here's the list of things I needed:
Interior lights (6 of them, excluding instruments)
Battery moved to trunk
Starter solenoid moved to trunk
Fuse box moved to trunk
“Single wire” alternator
Electric fan with thermostat
Electric water pump
H4 headlights (2 of them)
Electronic ignition (MSD 6AL)
MSD Pro-Billet distributor
AutoMeter electric voltmeter
AutoMeter electric oil pressure
AutoMeter electric water temp
AutoMeter electric speedometer
AutoMeter electric tachometer
Autometer electric fuel gauge
AutoMeter electric ATF temperature gauge
Electric fuel pump
You get the idea. I used Visio (being an IT geek and all) to draw out the wiring since I found the instructions to be drastically insufficient. Visio did not convert well to HTML or JPEG so if you cannot read any of these send me an email (email@example.com) and I can send you my original drawings. Here's my chart of all the circuits laid out using the Painless colors and numbers:
Here's the detailed drawing for the engine compartment including all of the relays:
Last drawing, of the various connectors and plugs:
Photos of the installation:
The fuse box is on the corner of the radiator support, each circuit is unrolled and laid out to uncurl a little in the sun.
Same thing from the other side. Painless was generous with the length of the wires, might not be enough for a Suburban, but was plenty for my car.
Fuse box is located into the trunk, main harness is taped and enclosed in plastic convoluted conduit.
Once the main harness is routed to the passenger compartment (over the rear wheel well and out of the way of the top mechanism) you will have a mess of colored spaghetti.
The total dissarray can be overwhelming.
Wires, loosely grouped and draped over various parts to wort them all out.
Main harness going to the front-clip, wrapped with plastic convoluted conduit and tied with tie straps. Note the firewall grommet in place, that is the rear wheel that is visible, wires are hanging out of driver's door.
Organization is really key here, using color coding to make sure I got every one of the little bastiges accounted for.
Tie wrapping the bundles and labeling each one.
This portion will remain in the passenger compartment.
Getting a little more organized.
Sorted out by which switch or device they connect to.
Working up the connections to the power distribution plate where all of the relays will be.
Power distribution plate with all power leads connected via fusible links, no loads are hooked up in this photo.
Fans, lights, pumps are all connected for testing. The curled up wires in the lower right are not going to be used at this time. They are for alternator exciter/regulator/fan switch.
My A-pillar pod, note it does not fit correctly at the top (small corner is bare), these will fit coupes and fastbacks only.
Most of the interior hookups are made without cutting or routing the wires. This is for testing all the connections, it will have to be re-done once I am sure I have it all hooked up right.
My 1 gauge welder's wire from battery to starter.